View back down Valle de Frances

Day 3

Starting Point: Refugio Paine Grande

Synopsis of the day: We left Paine Grande hiking east.  When we got to the middle part of the “W” we went north towards Campamento Britanico in the Valle de Frances.  After hiking all the up the valley and back, we continued heading east towards the right part of the “W”.

We knew this was our longest and most difficult day, so we got up super early and were on the trail by 6am.  The first couple hours of the hike were very nice as we passed Lago Skottsberg on our way to Campamento Italiano.  That was a good breaking point for a snack before heading up into the Valle de Frances.  This part of the hike was one of the more difficult sections as it was up, up, up for quite a while, and the trail was difficult to discern at times.  It was along the river and on gravel and big, loose rocks for a while before heading back into the woods.  All in all, it was a good 2-3 hours of hiking up.  It was tiring, so be sure to take breaks when necessary.

After some killer views along the way and another short jaunt through the forest, hikers come to a clearing before Campamento Britanico whren the views are just dynamite.  We sat on some big rocks for quite, eating lunch and just admiring the stunning scenery.  It was one of the more beautiful areas we’ve ever been, anywhere in the world.

TIP 4: I would absolutely, 100%, suggest anyone coming to TDP to stay one night either at Campamento Britanico or Campamento Italiano and have two days to explore the Valle de Frances.  We were definitely rushed as we knew we still had a good 5 hour hike to Refugio Cuernos, where we had a couple beds reserved for the night.  I honestly could have stayed in that clearing all day long and just hung out.  It was that gorgeous.

After enjoying ourselves for as long as we could, it was time to head back down the Valle de Frances towards Campamento Italiano.  Once there, it was several more hours of up and down hiking along Lago Nordenskjold.  The terrain was nothing too serious, but we were extremely tired and worn out.  The views along the lake were great, with snow capped mountains behind the lake and rugged, jagged mountains on the other side of us.  We finally reached our accommodations for the night, Refugio Los Cuernos, after 15 miles and nearly 12 hours on the trail.

Ending Point: Refugio Los Cuernos was in the middle of absolutely nowhere, which was nice, and we had a few beds again inside.  Even nicer.  And the best?  They sold beer, of which we drank a few too many considering the day we coming.  But we deserved it, so we enjoyed them.

Sleeping Arrangements: We slept in a 12-person dorm room, with 3 bed high bunks.  I was on the very top of one.  Not fun when having to go to the bathroom in the middle of the night.  They were fine, and I was certainly happy to be inside in a bed instead of on the ground in a tent.  The campgrounds were packed, and I know some people had trouble finding a good spot.

Length: 15 miles (24 km); ~12 hours

Be sure to come back tomorrow for the final post and culmination of our 5 day trek in Torres del Paine.