This post is part three of a FOUR part series entitled THE Definitive Guide to Hiking Torres del Paine.

Be sure to read Part One-Which Route to Take, and Part 2-What to Pack.

Where to sleep when hiking the “W”

So now you know which trail you’re hiking, where you’re beginning, and what to pack. But where do you stay while hiking the “W”?

Basically all hikers have two options: staying in a refugio or camping. The great thing about these options is that you don’t have to choose only one or the other. You can camp a few nights and stay at a refugio a few nights. It’s really up to you.

TIP #4: Regardless what you choose, if staying or camping at a refugio or on their land (particularly during high season), make sure you book as far in advance as possible. They book up quickly.

Refugios

Refugios are basically hostel-type accommodations inside the park. They are all different, most only have dorm style rooms, and they are very simple. Also, for what you get, they are expensive. As of February 2011, a single bed in a dorm room is anywhere between $40US and $58US. This only includes the bed. Sheets, pillows, and/or blankets are extra.

There are several refugios around the park and of course they are not all owned by one company (see, I told you researching this hike was a pain in the ass). However, Fantastico Sur seems to own most of them, so if solely staying in refugios around the park, you can probably just deal with them. If camping for part of it, you may have to deal with more than one company.

You may want to open this map again for reference. I am going to use the west to east route as a reference since that’s the way we took.

• Fantistico Sur- Fantastico Sur runs the majority of refugios in TDP. They range in costs, and you can book through their website.
  • Refugio Paine Grande- If hiking west to east, this will be your starting point. It’s a great lodge with a bar upstairs, a restaurant, and even internet. This is the nicest refugio you’ll see until the end of the hike. A single bed runs $58/person (sheets, pillows, and blankets extra), and it is a shared room (6 people) with shared bathroom.
  • Refugio Grey- Next up on the west to east route is Refugio Grey, about 7 miles (11km) and 3.5-4 hours away from Paine Grande. It is very simple, and a bed costs $40/person.
  • Refugio Cuernos- You are firmly in the park once you reach Refugio Cuernos. It’s about 8 miles (13km) from Paine Grande (in the opposite direction of Refugio Grey). Cost for staying here is $48/person.
  • Refugio Chileno- Chileno is close to the finale, sitting in between the exit to the park and the Torres themselves. Cost for a bed in Refugio Chileno is $48/person.

Camping

One of the great parts about hiking TDP is the options one has for accommodations. Since staying at refugios in the park can be really expensive, consider camping along the way. Hikers can camp the whole time or combine camping and refugio stays (which is what we did).

If camping, there are options.

1. You can bring your own tent from home and use that.
2. You can rent a tent from a place like Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales and use that.
3. You can rent a tent from a refugio (not all offer this, so check ahead as you have to reserve far in advance). The big advantage in this is that you don’t have to carry a tent or set it up. If you rent one from the refugio, you will arrive to an already set up tent.

All sites mentioned above (Paine Grande, Grey, Cuernos, and Chileno) all offer camping in land around their refugios. Contact Fantistico Sur to reserve space and equipment. There are also camp sites along the “W” at Britanico, Italiano, and Torres. All three require trekkers and hikers to bring their own tents, sleeping pads, blankets, and food/cooking equipment and all are free and require no advance reservation.

Price for camping: If camping at Paine Grande, Grey, Cuernos, or Chileno, costs for a site, tent, and sleeping pads for two are $28US. For camping at Grey, contact Vertice Patagonia. For all others, contact Fantastico Sur.

Camping on your own: If you want to carry your tent and camp the whole way, you can rent all you need from the Erratic Rock hostel. Here are the prices:

• Tent- $5.25US for a 1 person tent; $6.25 for 2, $10.50 for 3
• Sleeping bag/pad- $6.25